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#1
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Photography 101 Course by Gerry Mandering, commando, Elimare and others
Here.
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#2
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Question: What methods are available to take good outdoor/indoor night shots without getting a bad white reflective flash appearance?
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#3
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well, if you're not using flash, put the camera on a solid base, and make sure you've got tungsten white balance selected if indoors under tungsten light.
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#4
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But is there a way of using flash and making it work better than reflecting off everything? How do some people get crisp, sharp night shots that aren't too dark or too white?
What would be a good shutter speed range? |
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#5
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i'm no expert on flash, i tend to avoid using it.
night shots tend to be very contrasty, due to deeper shadows, and light sources being in the frame. |
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#6
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What do you mean very contrasty? Do you mean there has to be a very bright object being photographed at night for it to be a sharp enough photo?
Something like this? ![]() ![]() Last edited by JohnnyRockets : 27Dec2006 at 2120hrs. |
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#7
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sharpness is basically down to focus and camera stability; to a lesser extent, on aperture.
this is the histogram from your first photo - peaks at the shadows and highights, rather than the midtones - which is reflected in the contrast. |
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#8
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this is the histogram from your giraffe shot - see how it peaks in the midtones?
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#9
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that said, that's only one way of defining contrast - it's equally valid to use quick transitions from bright to dark as a definition, not just the relative amounts of each in the overall photo.
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#10
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So can you give an average range for shutter speed and aperture to be set at for night shots? ISO is always 1600, right?
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#11
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doesn't have to be. i've taken night shots (off a tripod) with 100 ASA; longest exposure being 16 minutes. anything from a second or two to a couple of hours; depends on light sources in the shot, what you're exposing for, and aperture...
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#12
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That's the problem with night shots... the need for a tripod. I'll see if I can make it to some towers nearby tomorrow night and take some shots. Still waiting for my zoom lens to arrive though.
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#13
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you don't *need* one - a solid base to sit the camera on will do, but it's not ideal, cos it mightn't allow the angle of view you want.
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#14
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In SLR's you can't really take a photo using the LCD, right? So is there a way of viewing the histogram while you're taking a photo, instead of viewing it after? Or is that only possible in point and shoot digital cameras?
The shop just called me today. They have my 80-200 mm lens. I wonder how does mm compare with optical zoom, say what's the equivalent of 12x optical zoom? |
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#15
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Idon't know of any camera where you can view the hitogram before you've captured the picture (data).
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